Electrical & Electric

Installing Batt Insulation

Installing Insulation Tips

Introduction:  

Batt insulation is pre-cut panels of fiberglass insulation and is available in a variety of lengths, widths, and R-values. Batt insulation is made to fit within most regular wall framing, which are usually spaced 12", 16", or 24" on center, and for either 8-ft. or 9-ft. high walls. Installing batt insulation is quite easy if you follow these installation tips.

To prevent skin itch from the fiberglass you should wear protective clothing when installing batt insulation to include a dust mask.

Batt insulation is available with and without facing. Faced batts are used in exterior walls as well as attics, finished basements, ceilings, floors, knee walls and cathedral ceilings. The facing material usually serves as a vapor retarder and makes handling and attachment easier to install. Factory applied vapor retarder facings are generally made of Kraft paper.

Faced batts are attached to framing members by stapling through the flanges. Un-faced batts are installed between framing members but not attached, allowing friction to hold them in place.

Installing Insulation Tips

1.  For ceiling and attic spaces, use batts of R-30 or R-38. In exterior walls R-13 to R-21 is commonly used, while in interior walls where insulation is used for sound control R-11 is used most frequently.

2. Open the packages by cutting lengthwise through the side panel. Be careful to avoid cutting the product or facing. The insulation will quickly expand to its full volume when the bag is opened.

3. Gently push batts into the cavity so that it sits all the way in, especially at the corner and edges. Then, fluff it to its full expansion by pulling it forward to fill the depth of the cavity. The fit should be snug,

4. With faced batts make sure the vapor retarder is facing the conditioned interior space, unless building codes specify otherwise.

5. Allow friction to hold the batts in place. Or you can staple the flanges of faced batts to the inside or face of the joists. (Stapling on the inside is preferred because it leaves the edges of the framing members easier to locate for installing sheetrock.  

6. Take care not to stretch the facing too tight as you staple, which can over compress the batt, and avoid gaps and puckers.

7. Secure floor insulation with wire fasteners, sometimes called "lightning rods." Press the fasteners so they bow up gently against the subflooring without compressing it. Space the fasteners at least six inches from each end of the batt and 12" - 24" apart.

8. Cut insulation about an inch wider than the space using a sharp utility knife against a safe backstop, such as an unfinished floor or other smooth, flat surface. Always cut on the un-faced side of the batt. For shorter spaces, cut the insulation to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Compression will change the R-value of the insulation.

9.  If it takes more than one batt to fill the height of a wall cavity, make sure the two pieces are butted snugly together.

That is all there is to installing batt insulation. Working with batt insulation is much easier than rolled insulation.

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