Ceramic Tile Floors Installation

All these problems can be avoided by following these instructions:

1. When preparing the floor for ceramic tile the floor need to be as solid as possible with very little flexibility. This is achieved by installed a solid sub-floor of ¾ inch plywood and overlaying it with 1/2 inch cement boards (backer boards). This gives a solid surface that the tile cement will adhere to. If there is any doubt have an adult jump on the floor to determine if there is any flexibility in the floor. Laying ceramic tile on top of a plywood floor without cement board is not recommended as overtime the tile will loosen. Secure the cement board to the floor with screws every 6 inches along the edges and at 12 inches off the edges.

2. Remove all baseboards and any other obstruction such as plumbing fixtures, toilets, and base cabinets that are attached to the floor. It is much easier to tile underneath cabinets than tiling around them. The floor should be smooth and free of all obstructions. Small depressions or defects will be filled in with the thinset that cements the tile to the flooring.

3. The subfloor and tile may raise the floor height above the door threshold and adjoining room floor. A 1/2 inch is common and is usually bridged with a threshold of metal or wood that bridges the threshold of both floors. In addition, a composite or marble threshold can be installed before the tile is laid.  

4. Always layout the tile in the desired pattern before applying the thinset cement. Draw layout lines on the floor as necessary. Use plastic spacers to establish straight and even rows and grout lines. Make all necessary tile cuts. Start in the center of the floor and work outwards so the wall tiles are the same size on each side or end. It is always a good idea to check the floor (room) for being square before you start. If the floor is not square minor adjustments will be necessary in the layout. It is better to know this before setting the tile so any minor adjustments to rows can be made progressively rather than a large adjustment on the last row. Cut tile as necessary.

5. Cutting the tiles during layout will facilitate the setting of the tiles without interruptions. Or you may choose to install all the full size tiles first and then after they set up cut and install the cut tiles. Use a snap cutter to the make the straight cuts. If it’s necessary to notch pieces use a nibbling tool and carefully perform the nibble cut. A little practice may be necessary. A wet saw may be preferable to the snap cutter for cutting large pieces. Wet saw can be rented at most home improvement supply centers.

6. Now we are ready to set the tile. Mix the thinset mortar following the manufacture’s recommendations. Spread the fixed mortar on the floor using a notched trowel. Insure that the mortar is smooth and spread evenly. Only apply the mortar mix to the working space that can be worked within fifteen minutes to avoid mortar dry out. Set the tiles in the mortar by pressing them down firmly and install the plastic spacers as you go.

7. Let the mortar set, usually 24 hours, before grouting. Mix the grout according to manufacturer’s instructions. Poor it onto the floor and spread it with a grout float in a circular pattern. Squeegee off the excess grout using a sponge moving across the grout lines. Be careful to remove the grout from the grout lines. Let partially dry and wipe the tile using a wet towel to clean the grout from the surface. Let thoroughly dry and wipe again using a damp towel.

8. Install the baseboard, cabinets, and plumbing fixtures.